hats and laces

This is a very fashionable example of bathing suit from 1917.

Publicity still from Teddy at the Throttle.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the swimsuits gradually started to show the feminine shape and a larger portion of skin became exposed to the sun and fresh air.

Bathing suit, 1916

The female body was covered almost entirely and only ankles could be shown.

The many skirts and petticoats usually worn under women’s dresses can surely stand in one’s way when paddling in the water. The practical solution was provided by bloomers, the long wide-legged pants inspired by Amelia Bloomer and her innovative ideas in clothing matters. Under these quite elaborate beach ensembles, women still had to wear corsets and stockings in keeping with the moral requirements of the day.

This bathing suit is from between 1895-1900 and has two headwear options.

Bathing is a sport
Enjoyed by great and small
In suits of any sort
Though better none at all
[Anonymous,  19th-century poem]

(Publicity picture, circa 1890)

In the 18th century, trips to the seaside were considered beneficial for health because of the properties of the salty air and water. During the following years, they became more and more popular as people discovered the fun of wading in the playful waves of the sea.

The 19th century women who went to the beach saw the necessity of adjusting their clothing to this new form of entertainment. Although they did not really swim, they strolled along or in the shallow water. Of course, the social etiquette of the era demanded modesty, thus bathers had to use special devices called bathing machines to keep women away from the eyes of the opposite sex.

In this photograph, a man in a swimsuit gets out of a bathing machine, 1891.

Today we will make a little trip to the beaches of the past, inspired by bkeasb’s wonderful suggestion. I will dedicate my posts to the evolution of swimwear, which is, as you will see, a very interesting aspect of fashion history!

(It is also particularly interesting for me right now since it’s pouring outside but I dream of seas and ocean breezes)

We will start from the very beginning, which is of course, the Antiquity. This mosaic found in a Roman villa near Piazza Armerina in Sicily depicts girls wearing garments very similar to what we nowadays call bikini. It is probably more than 2000 years old, during which we experimented with every possible method of layering and shaping to distort the skills of nature as a sculptor. Quite a long period people needed to get used to the natural forms of human body!

Parasol, 1880-90

Models photographed by Edward Steichen, 1928

Coat Pelisse, c.1820

This is the quintessential women’s outerwear garment of the early 19th century. Due to the nature of the fashions of the time, the pelisse had to be very fitted and tailored to better cover the insubstantial textile of the gowns underneath. Therefore they tended to be very fashionable and follow the lines of Empire dress. The historical references in the puffed sleeves and the military influences of the braid trim here are indicative of the time and masterfully executed in this example.

Cap, 1880

Until now I have completely neglected the fashions in menswear. I have to admit they aren’t as compelling as the ever-changing trends in womenswear, at least in my opinion. I’m about to change my mind, though, since I keep stumbling upon beautiful coats like this one.

This was worn at court probably between 1775 and 1789.

I would love to live back in the 18th century!

Queen Charlotte by Benjamin West, 1779

Picture from Mozart’s play The Marriage of Figaro at the restored Elgin Theatre in Toronto.